It's funny how fate, bad luck and timing can affect the outcome of things. Some people are born lucky; some business ventures work while others fail; for every Brad Pitt there's a Peter Crouch, and even Girls Aloud have 'The Ginger One', for balance if nothing else. It's as though life somehow manages to find a natural equilibrium for things. And where life leads, the Costa del Sol nearly always follows.
The resort of Nerja is located the wrong side of the tracks, ie, to the east of Málaga and not really on the Costa del Sol at all. While the millions of tourists that disembark at Málaga airport each year invariably veer frantically to the west, a select few will head east, around the city and along the undulating coastline of the beautiful Axarquía region. Upon reaching Nerja they experience something completely different to that found in the west...and not altogether less pleasant either.
It's a matter of taste really. There were Take That fans that couldn't stomach the sight or sound of East 17. Some people prefer the northern charm of Coronation Street to the more edgy attractions of Eastenders. There's a definite split between those that swoon at the sight of Claudia Schiffer or go weak at the knees at the mere mention of Cindy Crawford. And there are those that prefer their analogies based on relevant stuff from this decade, not last. But that's just how it is sometimes – a matter of taste.
Nerja is ideal for tourists who appreciate rugged coastlines, quaint fishing villages and the promotion of local practises in favour of selling out and looking to cram in as many holidaymakers as possible. Which is not to say that Nerja is not welcoming for visitors, rather it augments its own charms and knows full well the type of audience it wishes to attract.
Built atop beautiful cliffs overlooking the sparkling Mediterranean, Nerja's location is what makes it such a charming place to visit. It is situated some 50km east of Málaga and sits between the peaks of the Sierra Almijara and the sea, slap-bang in the middle of the Axarquía region. This stretch of coastline to the east of Málaga is distinctly different to that found to the west. Here, the mountains reach right down to the coast, lending the region a more dramatic – but more difficult to develop – landscape.
Nerja has been occupied since the times of the Moors, although the old town dates back 'only' to the 14th century. Careful and considered town planning since then has ensured Nerja has retained its beauty and charm over the centuries – today, it is a decadent and delightful resort town that abounds with traditional bars and restaurants and is shrouded in an air of satisfied contentment all year round.
The resort's rugged coastline harbours more than 10km of beautiful beaches, bays and coves, the most famous of these is the 'Balcón de Europa' (Balcony of Europe), which is a stunning cliff face that overhangs the beach, divides it into two and attracts thousands of tourists from all over the world. There are palm trees, al fresco cafés and restaurants, plenty of shops and bars and a bustling promenade here, which is the undisputed hub of regional activity. Other beaches and coves worthy of note include the Las Arberquillas, the El Pino and the El Canuelo coves.
Nerja Caves – A few kilometres inland from the town are the famous Nerja Caves, Spain's second-most popular tourist attraction after the Prado Museum in Madrid. Only discovered as recently as 1959, these huge underground caverns had lain untouched by the human hand for millennia, hiding pre-historic cave paintings and pieces of wall art that are thought to be some of the oldest ever discovered on the continent. Now a designated National Historic-Artistic Monument, the Nerja Caves provide a brilliant day out that the whole family can enjoy: the haunting beauty of the prehistoric art is matched by the eerie shadows thrown by the huge stalactites and stalagmites that sprout throughout the caves.
Each summer the Nerja Caves host the annual Festival de la Cueva de Nerja, a musical celebration that not only attracts some of the biggest names in Spanish pop and classical music (like, er, José Carreras) but also benefits from impressively unique acoustics that the cave naturally provides.
The Balcón de Europa – With the golden sandy beach below, palm trees lining the promenade either side and inviting cafés, restaurants and bars dotted along the cliff-face, the Balcón de Europa is an idyllic setting for the entire family.
The sedate pace of life that is found here perhaps best encapsulates Nerja as a whole. It is pretty. It is peaceful. It is traditional and it is welcoming. There are late night bars and clubs of course, but the resort seems to cater more for Spaniards, older couples and families with very young children than those naturally drawn to places like Marbella and Puerto Banús.
For the Watersports – The resort's Playa Burriana beach is great for watersports. The rocky makeup of this stretch of coastline makes it an ideal spot for scuba diving, while windsurfing and kitesurfing conditions are generally good for much of the year.
For the Golf – Although the west of the Costa del Sol is the true golfer's haven, Nerja and its surrounding region boasts a couple of exceptional courses too, including the new and exclusive course found at the Valle de la Coladilla. There is also the Baviera Golf course that is located just a few kilometres away in the neighbouring resort of Caleta de Vélez.