There's rich colour everywhere you look in Granada. In summer, dazzling pinks, reds and yellows can be found in the wild carpet of flowers that blanket the surrounding mountains of the Sierra Nevada, before heavy snowfalls in early November transform the landscape into a gleaming, glistening and undulating horizon of pristine white.
In the foothills of the mountain range, rich emerald greens abound for as far as the eye can see, while in the city itself a majestic kaleidoscope of colours assaults the senses, in the form of carefully-selected decorative flowerbeds, or the dizzying garments of the city's many street performers. There's colour, too, in the buildings, the statues, the houses and the rooftops, all illuminated by a sky that's a deeper blue than all the world's seas and oceans combined. Granada's breathtaking setting isn't taken for granted – the city plays its part in augmenting the beauty, creating one of the most aesthetically attractive conurbations found anywhere in Europe.
So where lies the appeal? Ignoring the elephant in the room for a moment (that being the wonderful Alhambra Palace), Granada is simply sophistication personified. There's nowhere like it in the UK, that's for sure, and there are very few cities on the continent with the same easy charm, laid-back atmosphere, architectural beauty and Bohemian makeup as Granada. Although the rougher outskirts of Granada are quite industrial – this is a common feature of most larger cities in Spain – once you have traversed the rim of the city, its beauty and character quickly shines through.
Clean, café-laden, commercially muted and culturally enhanced, the streets of Granada are pristine in every sense; litter-free, fronted by beautifully restored old buildings, decorated with fresh flowers and well-scrubbed monuments, and populated by impossibly polite people, there's no escaping the feeling of just how perfect everything seems. Even the traffic seems embarrassed by its potential to imbalance the serenity, and so it trundles along slowly and respectfully. And although shopping in Granada is as varied and diverse as you would expect, stores seemingly defer to the city's greater attractions, namely its lovely buildings, brilliant plazas, cool cafés and exceptional restaurants and tapas bars. Suffice to say, this open-air museum will delight every visitor that lays eyes upon it.
The city of Granada is located at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in southern Spain, just 140km north east of Málaga, and less than a two-hour drive from the Costa del Sol. You might read somewhere than Granada (or more specifically the Sierra Nevada) can offer you the chance to 'ski in the daytime, sunbathe in the afternoon', which is one of those oft-repeated marketing phrases that soon becomes considered unshakeable fact - kind of like 'Guinness is good for you' or 'Yes We Can' - the message being that Granada's supreme location enables its guests to enjoy the two pursuits that are complete polar opposites. Ostensibly do-able if you don't mind chilly sunbathing or slushy skiing, the months of November and April are your best bets if you fancy trying this.
But why would you? Just because you could doesn't mean you should. The nearest beaches – those found on the Costa Tropical at the foot of the beautiful Alpujarras region – are lovely and worth spending the entire day upon, while the skiing at Sierra Nevada is fantastic considering you are on the Mediterranean, so why think of the beach when on the slopes?
Such a southern location lends Granada a beautiful climate, with winters relatively cool but quite dry, and summer temperatures hot, but not stifling. Between June and September expect at least 30ºC each day, with a few days in late July topping 40ºC. The summer average is a balmy 22ºC. At Sierra Nevada, the extremes are more pronounced, particularly in the winter when sub-zero temperatures are the norm for January and February. Despite – or perhaps because of – this, the World Health Organization (WHO) has gone on record stating that Granada province has one of the healthiest climates in the world. So now you know.
The Romans and Moors must have known this. Back in antiquity, the Romans sprinkled their magic dust on the region, creating the town of Illibris, before the 8th century brought the conquering Moors and their Islamic rule. After erecting the city walls and building the Alhambra, Granada became a beacon of Islamic enlightenment, the Caliphate swallowing up Córdoba and stretching all the way to present-day Murcia. By 1492, Granada was the last remaining Moorish stronghold on the Iberian Peninsula, eventually succumbing to the Christian conquistadores, ruled by Ferdinand and Isabella.
Enchanted by what they found, the new Catholic Kings quickly fell in love with their newly-acquired palatial home; the unmistakeably Arabic Alhambra was painstakingly transformed into a palace during the time of the Nazari Dynasty, receiving new wings, gardens, fortresses and churches. Throughout the entire city, Granada's rich and varied history is evident at every step, captivating tourists as they wander with wonder along the perfect streets.
ALHAMBRA PALACE: The Alhambra is a recognised UNESCO World Heritage Site, a massive tourist attraction that welcomes an average of 8,000 visitors through its doors every day of the year, and was recently shortlisted as one of the 'New' Seven Wonders of the World. While it didn't quite make the grade, anybody lucky enough to have visited the site won't be unduly concerned. In fact, the more the Alhambra remains slightly below the radar of the less discerning of tourists (although one of Spain's most visited tourist attractions, the Alhambra is hardly recognised on the world stage – the Leaning Tower of Pisa is better known), then all is well – too much traffic could badly alter its charm.
The Alhambra Palace sits atop a steep terrace that keeps watch on the city below. In the background sit the breathtaking peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, and a rolling horizon stretches out for miles before it. The setting is both dramatic and defensive – it is easy to see why the Moors chose this particular spot in which to build their citadel. Inside, the scope of beauty of the Alhambra will take your breath away. The peaceful and enchanting Generalife Gardens echo to the sound of rippling water and gently swaying branches, a perfectly preserved Arabian garden set under the Spanish sun.
The Alcazaba, the bull ring, the Tower of Justice, the Court of the Lions, the Patio de Los Arranyes and even the majestic Parador Hotel...every sight of the Alhambra is worth seeing, so make a day of it, arrive early or out of season to avoid the queues and arm yourself with a trusty digital camera, lashings of sun lotion and comfortable walking shoes, for you're in for a long and memorable day!
THE OLD TOWN: The charming Old Town of Granada is a massed huddle of hilly, twisting and tight cobbled streets that are home to brilliant tapas bars where the actual practise of a free tapas still exists. To explain: 'tapa' means 'lid' in Spanish, and the custom derives from the practise of placing a piece of bread over one's drink in order to keep flies from it. Over time, the bread was flavoured, tarted up, and soon became an attraction in its own right – every drink came with a tasty tapa. Today, there are very few places that still deliver this free tapa with a drink, but Granada has them in abundance.What it also has in abundance is impressive monuments and historical buildings. Aside from the Alhambra, the old quarter of Granada is also home to the majestic Cathedral, the delightful Santa Ana Church, the Basilica of St. John of God, the Castril Palace which houses the Architectural Museum of Granada, the Charterhouse, the Albayzin, the Gate of Elvira and the Almorabitin Mosque.
A great way to experience Granada is to enter the old town on foot from the Alhambra Palace. A steep descent alongside the fast-rushing River Darro soon leads out on to the bridge that straddles it, where you will find a number of smart cafés and restaurants with al fresco riverside seating. Many of the city's street performers and gypsies congregate here, keen to capture the milling crowds as they emerge wide-eyed from the grounds of the Alhambra. Music, dance, art and fashion collide here, with plenty of cosy stores just waiting to be explored. Up from here is the El Sacromonte, or Gypsy Quarter, where excellent views back toward the Alhambra can be glimpsed.
SIERRA NEVADA: With 65km of slopes, a lengthy ski season that begins in November and can stretch right through to late April, and impressive diversity in the resort centre and on the slopes, the Sierra Nevada ski resort is one of Granada's gems. Obviously busier in winter, summer visitors can still enjoy its natural beauty by undertaking hikes, bike rides and horseback adventures.
But it is during the colder months that Sierra Nevada really comes alive. Quaint wooden chalets dot the resort centre; nursery slopes reverberate to the sound of giggling first-timers as they get to grips with their skis, and the main slopes provide various degrees of challenges for skiers of all ages and experience.
In Pradollano – which is the official name of the village centre – plenty of vibrant cafes, restaurants and bars keep the crowds fed and watered, delivering the perfect atmosphere for thumping apres ski fun, family get-togethers, hearty pre-ski brunches and congratulatory post-ski drinks, where bruises can be compared and weary limbs can be soothed in front of open log fires.
For the International Music & Dance Festival – The name says it all. Held annually at the end of June until the middle of July, this spectacle of dance and music just so happens to coincide with the height of summer, so temperatures soar, hotels fill up and the normally sedate streets of the city come to life in a mish-mash of colour and sound. Book early, get somewhere central, and go and have the time of your life.
For the Nightlife – Granada has no reason to pander to the whims or wants of a transient tourist town. Hence, there are no garish bars, flyering girls or desperate discount tactics. As a result, to experience a night out in Granada, you're going to have to do it their way – head out at 10pm for tapas and a few small beers or sherrys. Actually TALK to your friends/work colleagues, chat with the waiters, enjoy the experience of drinking outside without constant cajoling by the police or the homeless, move on to a livelier bar, drink a bit more, chat a bit more and then, at around 4am, head to a club where you can dance and drink until sunrise. It's exhausting and wipes out the first part of the next day, but it's immensely enjoyable.
For the Sightseeing – Weekend breaks – be they in Tallin, Berlin or a Travel Inn – tend to follow the same type of pattern. You arrive, tired, laden down with cases and one snidey comment away from a seismic row with your loved one or travel companion. You scour maps, circle attractions, eat a dodgy breakfast and embark upon 'sightseeing'. You snap pictures, pull faces, ascend the tallest buildings and eat yet more unusual food. Then you go out and get drunk. Granada allows for all this, but it does so with large helpings of charm, lashings of historical intrigue, plenty of architectural beauty and some of the finest picture opportunities found anywhere in southern Spain.