Like a movie starlet found sprawled suggestively on your bed, or a crumpled fiver pulled with glee from the pockets of an old pair of jeans, sometimes the unexpected can delight and surprise in equal measure. And so it is with Córdoba. Located in the very heart of Andalucia, this beautiful city is as Spanish as could be, yet is also home to the third largest mosque in the world – the majestic Mezquita.
Why, you might ask, is one of the Muslim world's most important and impressive monuments located in – if not the home then at least the back garden of – Catholicism? The answer lies in antiquity. Hispanophiles will be well aware of Spain's rich and diverse history - a history that goes far beyond the images we're perhaps most familiar with, farther than the Franco era, the civil war, the creation of Flamenco, the bullfighting, the Armada and the Inquisition...even good old Don Quixote; all mere whippersnappers when compared alongside Spain's – and Córdoba's - ancient history.
The city has existed since 169 B.C., and was founded by the Romans. After a lengthy Visigoth rule, Córdoba was captured by the Moors in 711 and turned into not only one of the most stunning cities in Europe, but also one of the richest and most culturally-enlightened places on earth, all centred around the Mezquita. Today, Córdoba's location makes it an important hub for the south of the country, sitting between west and east, with the capital Madrid to the north and the thriving Mediterranean resorts along the Costa del Sol to the south east.
While lacking the international reputation enjoyed by Seville, bereft of an airport as busy as Málaga's, and unable to boast Granada's easy access to the Sierra Nevada ski resorts, Córdoba still manages to pull in the tourists. Its beautifully varied architecture makes it one of the most picturesque cities in Spain, harbouring a peaceful atmosphere that draws upon the city's visual majesty and fantastic climate to create a warmth and charm that is highly infectious to all who visit, so be warned: if you do not want to be bitten by the Córdoba bug, dose up on culture-protectors before you arrive.
Córdoba is the third largest city in Andalucia after Seville and Málaga, home to over 300,000 inhabitants. Boasting areas of gleaming modern infrastructures, a high-speed rail network and excellent road links, the city is a testament to Spain's rapid modernisation since the late 1980s. However, Córdoba remains, on the whole, a grand old city that is full of antique buildings and captivating vistas in every direction. Lovers of classic Andalusian and Moorish architecture are in for a rare treat – Córdoba's delightful old town is a testament to the brilliance of the human mind: its tightly winding streets, whitewashed walls decorated with hanging flower pots, and the endless number of pretty patios combine to create a centre that is as far removed from the UK's identikit high streets as possible.
The rich tapestry of culture draped over Córdoba is a result of the city's breathtakingly broad history that stretches back thousands of years. The legacy of Moorish rule on the city is perhaps the most tangible one, and not only at the Mezquita, but throughout many of the old town's streets. Indeed, the Mezquita was originally a Visigoth place of worship until it was altered and expanded by the Moors in 784. During this period, the Moorish leader was an exiled Syrian named Abd ar-Rahman who, it is believed, ordered the Mezquita to face south and not east toward Mecca, like all mosques should do. Perhaps choosing to ignore his exile, Rahman wanted to replicate exactly how the mosque would look in his native Damascus, which lies due north of Mecca and would ordinarily have faced south.
Christian rule returned to the city in 1236; King Ferdinand III of Castile oversaw Córdoba's transformation from one of the leading lights in the Muslim world into one of Christian Europe's most attractive cities, with the Mezquita undergoing yet more changes as it was slowly and meticulously moulded into a Royal Chapel. Centuries of peace and prosperity followed before the tensions and the bloodshed of the Spanish Civil War shook Córdoba – and Andalucia as a whole – to its very core. Since the growth of the package holiday tourist, Córdoba has benefited from the secondary knock-on effects of this influx of visitors and now boasts a well-trodden tourist trail while managing to retain its authenticity throughout.
Weather-wise, Córdoba boasts the continent's highest average annual temperatures, with a summer average of 28ºC and a winter average of 14ºC. During the height of summer, Seville is hotter, but Córdoba has plenty of days where the mercury tops 40ºC in June, July, August and September. All year round the city enjoys a clement climate, making for ideal sightseeing conditions pretty much every day of the year.
THE MEZQUITA – First a church, then a mosque, then a Royal Temple, then a cathedral and today a member of the diocese of Córdoba, the Mezquita's rich and varied tenancy history is a result of Córdoba's strategic importance over the centuries. All invading and ruling forces have been drawn to it like a bee to honey, captivated by its beauty and scale, and particularly its adaptability to change. A marked feature of the Mezquita is its giant arches that are supported by 856 columns made of granite, marble, jasper and onyx. Inside, the mihrab forms the focus of the monument's beauty – smoothly constructed and artistically decorated, this internal Garden of Eden captivates visitors from the very moment they step inside.
Equally impressive is the Patio de los Naranjos which is located inside the grounds of the Mezquita and is an ideal spot to take the weight off, enjoy the sun and take stock of the sights you are beholding. Additional treasures inside include the honey-combed dome, the prayer niches and the Renaissance-era nave that is located at the very centre of the structure.
THE SYNAGOGUE – It's not all Christian and Islamic architecture in Córdoba. The Jewish community have their very own monumental masterpiece to admire in the form of the 14th century Synagogue. Built in the Mudejar (Muslims who remained living under Christian rule throughout the reconquest) style, this beautiful temple was the centrepiece of life for Spain's Jews before their 1492 expulsion. After that, the synagogue became a workshop, a school, a hospital and – in 1885 – a National Monument.
For the patios – If the classic English garden is all rockeries, ponds, inquisitive hedgehogs and perfectly manicured lawns, then the Spanish equivalent of fountains, fragrant plant life, wrought-iron railings and shaded tiled benches is equally idyllic, and nowhere in Spain does this better than Córdoba.
Córdoba's patios are central to everyday life in the city. They perform a variety of roles, from afternoon bedroom for the famous siesta; a meeting place for friends and family in which to enjoy a barbecue and a cool drink; a necessary summer shelter from the searing sun; an al fresco dining hall and, yes, your common or garden, erm, garden.
There's even an annual patio competition that runs for a fortnight in the middle of May. The Concurso de Patios awards gongs in a number of different categories, including 'Best Wrought Iron Railing Display' (the biggie) and best balcony. These two weeks are also the perfect excuse for the Spanish to do what they do best – let their hair down and party all night long. Córdoba hosts a concurrent musical festival during the Patio Competition, bringing the streets of this ancient city to life with the sounds and spectacular sights of Flamenco, embraced by all and accompanied by copious amounts of alcohol and regional tapas. The weather is fine too, making May perhaps the best month to visit Córdoba.
For the May Crosses Festival – More May madness occurs in the form of the May Crosses Festival, which is, simply, a festival that celebrates ornately-decorated crosses and is held in May. Again, awards are dished out for the most impressive crosses (no Beckham jokes, please), while the larger public crosses form mini hubs of entertainment, delivering local dishes and music for the duration of the festival.