There appears to still be some kind of astonishment among some travel and estate agents that it is actually possible to ski in Spain. They cannot quite believe the incredulity of it all, and embark upon advertising and marketing campaigns highlighting this remarkable fact. In truth, all they're merely advertising is their complete ignorance of the country they're supposed to be promoting. Of course you can ski in Spain, no more than you can sunbathe in England, go sailing in Switzerland and find an unattractive person in Sweden – reputations are there to be broken.
Of course, Spain being the second most mountainous country in Europe (after Switzerland and pretty much tied with Turkey) helps, as do the pretty regular snowfalls that occur on higher ground thanks to the country's close proximity to the Atlantic. In the north of the country, the Pyrenees and, to a lesser extent, the Picos de Europa mountain ranges boast lengthy ski seasons and impressively challenging skiing that is almost as good as that found on offer in the famous resorts of the Alps.
Farther south, and just a two-hour drive from the Costa del Sol, is the Sierra Nevada. Ski conditions here are good for beginners and irregular skiers, and passable for the more frequent skier – there's little to challenge accomplished snowhounds here, but the slopes are diverting enough, the setting is breathtaking and the accessibility for those looking to live the coastal life but still enjoy a slice of the high life is unrivalled. This is what makes Sierra Nevada so special.
Sierra Nevada has been home to the most southerly ski resort in Europe since the turn of the 20th century. The main village is called Pradollano which has in recent years experienced something of a tourism boom. The thirst for affordable skiing exploded in the late 1990s, with hoteliers, airlines and the local tourist board all identifying Sierra Nevada's potential appeal to the package holidaymakers that descend upon the nearby Mediterranean resorts like clockwork every year. After a fresh makeover and the construction of a number of affordable hostels, standard hotels and a couple of the more luxurious establishments, Sierra Nevada soon became a viable ski option to rival the other resorts in the country.
The highest peak is the imposing Mulhacén, which stands at more than 3,800 metres tall and is mainland Spain's highest mountain. At the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountain range is the enchanting city of Granada. Such close proximity to one of the most beautiful and culturally impressive cities in Europe makes Sierra Nevada rather unique. While the chilly but bright weather atop the mountains makes for ideal skiing conditions, down in Granada it's a different story altogether – the city enjoys one of the world's most agreeable climates, where winters are pleasantly crisp and summers are hot but manageable, with the help of a little bit of sun lotion, of course.
THE SKIING – Well, obviously. But where the Sierra Nevada perhaps differs from other major ski resorts in Europe is its acceptance that, in the well-established hierarchy of things, it's not exactly on most hardened skiers' wish-lists of challenges to tackle. The slopes, while varied in their difficulty, do not really compare too well to those found in the French, Italian, Swiss or Austrian Alps.
As a result, there's a refreshing lack of pretension at Sierra Nevada. Its affordability and accessibility makes it a great destination for families that are rather less well-versed in slope etiquette, making for a wonderfully welcoming atmosphere that is sure to be enjoyed by all ages.
In addition, if you're something of a novice, the gentle nursery slopes at Sierra Nevada – coupled with the inexpensive lessons and gear hire – are ideal for easing you into a life on the slopes. You never know, you may have just found your calling in life!
THE APRÉS SKI – Imagine, if you will, that Spain actually didn't have any suitable land for skiing. That the country was flat, hot, dry and dusty throughout. If this were the case, the other nations blessed with suitable skiing conditions could do a lot worse than turn to the Spanish for help with their aprés ski scene, because the Spanish know how to party better than pretty much any other nation on the planet.
Yep, like an Iberian version of the dreaded 'Irish Pub' diaspora (where the Irish really have no excuse: conditions in their homeland are perfect for your average Irish bar – it's cold and wet outside, sawdust is readily available and the ambulance service is pretty good by all accounts), the Spanish could infest every ski resort on the planet with tapas bars, charming bodegas and gaudy discotecas that pump out sub-Scooter europap until the early hours.
But they don't have to, because the Sierra Nevada is an ideal breeding ground for such hedonistic pursuits. After a day spent jarring bones, twisting ankles and face-planting into snow on the slopes, the resort centre at Pradollano proffers the most welcoming of embraces. Lovely restaurants jostle with cosy lounge bars and traditional tapas joints for your custom, cleverly decorated with comfortable seating, open log-fires and rich woods, creating an atmosphere that would be mightily appealing even if you weren't covered from head to toe in bruises. Afterwards, if you still have the energy and ability to walk, there are a couple of large nightclubs that cater for a younger crowd, so be sure to preserve your energy on the slopes if you plan to cut some shapes on the dancefloor later.
For the Summer: That's right, the summer. Once the snow has melted, the skiers have gone home and the mercury risen past 25ºC, the Sierra Nevada is utterly transformed. Where once swept skiers, now tread hikers. Where aprés ski parties once carried on until dawn, now a more sedate offering occurs, with the centre of Pradollano quieter, more peaceful and highly inviting. The surrounding mountains benefit from the richness of the climate: the terrain is fertile and sunshine is abundant, a heady combination that is the perfect environment for a wonderfully diverse flora and fauna. Fragrant fields of jasmine and pine spring up in Spring, while the olive and citrus groves on the south-facing slopes of the Alpujarras have to be seen to be believed. Beautiful and rural, life here appears to be unchanged for centuries.
Conversely, life slows down in the summer at Sierra Nevada. At a time when the coastal resorts are heaving and Spain's cities are playing host to an endless procession of sightseers, Sierra Nevada is welcoming ramblers, outdoor enthusiasts, campers and families. The good alpine life of central Europe is replicated here, albeit with richer sunshine and Spain's very own take on having fun.
